Decks in Custer Face a Different Kind of Wear
Custer sits close enough to the water and open enough to the weather that a deck here ages differently than one built forty miles inland. Salt-laden air off the Strait works into fasteners and metal connectors over time. Driving rain, pushed sideways by wind more often than it falls straight down, finds its way into joints and ledger connections that would stay dry in a calmer climate. And for a good stretch of the year, shaded or north-facing sections of decking hold enough moisture that moss and algae get a foothold. None of this means a deck can't last decades out here — it means it has to be built with those specific conditions in mind from the framing up, not just finished to look good on day one.
A lot of deck problems we get called out to inspect in Whatcom County aren't design failures — they're the result of a deck built the same way it would be built in a dry climate, with no allowance for what salt air, standing moisture, and a long wet season actually do to lumber and hardware.

What a Deck Built for This Climate Actually Needs
Corrosion-resistant fasteners and hardware
Standard galvanized fasteners can start showing surface rust within a few seasons this close to the water. We use stainless steel or high-grade coated fasteners rated for coastal and ACQ-treated lumber exposure, along with connectors and joist hangers built to match. It costs more up front than using whatever's on the shelf at a big-box store, but replacing rusted-through hardware on a five-year-old deck costs far more.
Proper drainage at every level
Water needs somewhere to go — off the decking surface, away from the ledger board, and clear of the footings. That means correct board spacing and slope on the decking itself, flashing that actually sheds water away from the house rather than trapping it against the ledger, and footings set below frost depth with drainage that doesn't leave posts sitting in saturated soil through the wet months.
Ventilation underneath
A deck that sits low to the ground with poor airflow underneath holds moisture longer after every rain. Where grading and height allow, we build in enough clearance and gaps for air to move, which slows both rot and the moss and mildew that thrive in still, damp conditions.
Decking Material Options for Custer Homes
There's no single "right" material for every deck — it depends on budget, how much upkeep you want to do, and how exposed the deck is to sun, shade, and salt air. Here's how the common options actually compare in this climate:
| Material | Upfront Cost | Maintenance | How It Handles Local Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pressure-treated lumber | Lowest | Needs re-staining/sealing every 2-3 years | Holds up structurally but needs consistent sealing to resist moisture and moss buildup |
| Cedar | Moderate | Regular sealing/staining to hold color and resist moisture | Naturally rot-resistant but still needs upkeep against salt air graying and moss in shaded spots |
| Composite decking | Higher | Occasional washing, no staining/sealing | Resists moisture absorption and rot well; still benefits from periodic cleaning to prevent surface algae film |
| PVC/capped composite | Highest | Lowest — mostly washing | Best resistance to moisture, salt exposure, and moss staining of the common options |
We're honest about trade-offs rather than pushing one product: pressure-treated framing under any of these decking types is standard and appropriate, but the visible decking surface is where the maintenance-versus-cost decision really plays out. If you want the lowest long-term maintenance and can absorb the higher material cost, composite or capped composite makes sense here. If you're comfortable with a re-sealing routine every couple of years, wood decking still performs well when the structure underneath is built correctly.
Framing lumber matters more than people think
Even if you choose composite or PVC decking boards, the substructure underneath — joists, beams, posts — is almost always pressure-treated lumber. That framing is what actually determines how long the deck lasts structurally, and it's the part most homeowners never see once the project is done. We don't cut corners here because it's invisible; it's the part that has to survive the driving rain and ground moisture for the life of the deck.
Footings, Ledger Attachment, and the Details That Prevent Failures
Most serious deck failures don't start with the decking boards — they start at the ledger board (where the deck attaches to the house) or at the footings. A ledger that isn't properly flashed lets water track behind it and into the house framing, which can go unnoticed for years in a climate where everything stays damp anyway. Footings that aren't set deep enough or don't have adequate drainage can shift over time in Whatcom County's wet, sometimes heavy clay-influenced soils.
We treat these two elements as non-negotiable regardless of the decking material chosen:
- Ledger board flashed with proper counter-flashing and a water-resistant barrier before the deck ledger goes up, not just caulked after the fact
- Footings poured to required depth with drainage gravel, not just set on grade
- Post bases elevated off the concrete with standoff hardware so wood never sits directly in standing water
- Joist hangers and structural connectors matched to the fastener type to avoid galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals
- Beam and joist spans sized to local code and snow/live load requirements, not just "what looks sturdy"
Moss, Algae, and Long-Term Maintenance
Custer's moss season is long, and any horizontal wood or composite surface that stays shaded or doesn't drain well will grow something on it eventually. Building for this isn't about eliminating moss entirely — it's about designing a deck that sheds water fast enough and gets enough airflow that moss and algae don't have the standing moisture they need to establish. Board spacing, deck orientation relative to shade, and gap width between boards all play a role.
Once the deck is built correctly, ongoing maintenance is straightforward: an annual rinse or gentle wash to knock back early algae growth, keeping gutters and downspouts clear so runoff isn't dumping directly onto the deck, and re-sealing wood decking on the schedule appropriate to the product. Composite and PVC decking need far less of this, which is part of why they're worth considering for a low-maintenance deck in a climate that works against wood surfaces most of the year.
Permits and Local Requirements
Most new decks and many deck replacements in Whatcom County require a building permit, particularly if the deck is elevated, attached to the house, or above a certain size. Permit requirements and inspection steps can vary depending on the specifics of the project and the jurisdiction handling the parcel. We handle the permit process as part of the job — pulling the right permit, building to the applicable code for footings, guardrails, and stair requirements, and scheduling inspections — so you're not left trying to sort out county requirements on your own.
Our Process for a Custer Deck Project
- On-site assessment — we look at the site's exposure to wind, rain, and sun, existing grading and drainage, and how the deck will attach to the house
- Material and design conversation — honest discussion of decking material trade-offs based on your budget and how much maintenance you want to take on
- Permit and design finalization — drawings and permit submission sized correctly for the structure and local code
- Framing and structural work — footings, posts, beams, joists, and ledger flashing done to the standard that has to hold up in this climate, not just pass a quick look
- Decking, railing, and finish work — installed with attention to spacing and drainage, not just appearance
- Final walkthrough and inspection — confirming the deck passes required inspections and walking you through the maintenance it actually needs
Why Hiring a Crew That Already Works Custer Matters
A deck built by a crew that mostly works in drier inland climates can look great and still fail early here, because the design decisions that matter most — fastener choice, flashing detail, footing drainage, board spacing for moss resistance — aren't things you can shortcut and still get away with this close to the water. We work in Blaine, Custer, and the surrounding parts of Whatcom County regularly enough that these aren't special accommodations for us; they're just how we build every deck in this area. That familiarity with local soil conditions, wind exposure, and the realities of a long wet season is what separates a deck that needs major repair in eight years from one that's still solid in twenty-five.
A quick checklist if you're evaluating an existing deck
- Soft, spongy, or discolored spots in the decking, especially near the house
- Visible gaps or rust streaks at the ledger board where it meets the siding
- Wobble or movement in railings or posts when you lean on them
- Heavy moss or algae buildup that returns quickly after cleaning
- Fasteners with visible rust, staining, or heads that have sheared off
- Water pooling on the surface instead of draining off after rain
If any of those sound familiar, it's worth having someone look at the structure, not just the surface — a deck that looks fine from a few feet away can still have a ledger or footing problem underneath.
Let's Talk About Your Deck
Whether you're planning a new deck from the ground up or replacing one that hasn't held up to Custer's weather, we're happy to walk the site with you and talk through honest options for your budget and how much maintenance you want to take on. Reach out for a free, no-pressure estimate using the form below.
Blaine Siding